Lord Imran Kairugawa

Finished the Hatamoto yesterday. Love the pose especially with the naginata.

I've finally managed to paint the Tokugawa crest using masks. Nothing super special but it works I think.

I added the lines on top and below on the banner because it looked too plain with just the crest. The lines on the bottom indicate what level of warrior they are. Ties in with the gold dots on their scabbards.

So 3 samurais done and I need one more to get my 125 points buntai ready for battle this weekend. This will be my list.
Hatamoto Leader (level 4)    38 points
- naginata, naginata bujutsu, powerful

Samurai A (level 3)       27 points
- kenjutsu

Hatamoto B (level 4)    32 points
- kenjutsu

Samurai B (level 3)      27 points
- kenjutsu

Comes to a total of 124 points. Why 125 points? It was a number suggested by good friend Mark. At 100 points there's not much you can get from the Bushi Buntai. The FoC is rather restricted if you want to have level 1 and/or 2 Ashigarus so I'm going to try an elite all samurai list. I'll be vulnerable to shooting so I'll stick close to cover until the time comes to close into combat :)

Wish me luck. Am going to need it as I'll be going up against the dreaded Warlord Arzmi Killalla!

Lord Umari Kairugawa

Just couldn't resist painting another North Star samurai although I'm in the midst of my Skaven project.

I wanted this model to look darker compared to the one I painted earlier and I'm not quite happy with the final outcome.

I wanted black to be the prominent color but I think the dark red cloth ....for want of a better word, disrupts the overall effect I was looking for.

But it is another figure done so at least it's something. I still haven't decided on a crest for the back banners and that's the reason it's still not there.

My 2 samurais protecting a village from some rowdy bandits in a recent game :). Suffice to say, heads rolled.

Them Skravens are tight yoo = digging your own grave

Legio Malaysia is holding our second Army Throwdown event which kicked off yesterday, 8th October. This time we've made it a Warhammer Fantasy theme. For more info about this painting event please check here
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1yTDA0JJUpw-0IqsYNmJV4N8EHJwjB4Ten6jJR0vDk3M/edit

I've decided to do Skaven, yes I'm an idiot but I got these models when I bought the Island of Blood box way way back in 2011. I'm not going super crazy with this project and will be using 2 IoB Skaven sets with some Stormvermins and Gutter Runners. I will have 156 models which should be doable considering we have until February 14th next year to complete it. That's 18 weeks. That's 7 models per week...Doable methinks. 

I've decided to use cork boards as my bases. Make it into a town pavement look. I'll be making these look bright greyish to contrast with the skaven which will most probably look dark, as befits their theme. I'm thinking of going with Clan Mors but haven't actually decided. It'll come when I actually start painting them.

The bases are made from mdf strips cut into regimental sizes. The cork I bought at Daisho for RM5.00 per set. You get 8 pieces per set. The bottom of the cork is sticky, which was a really nice surprise as now I don't have to glue them to the mdf. Time saved. But I did have to carefully cut the mounting tabs of all the rats. I believe its worth the effort because I will not have to go through the glue sanding and waiting to dry process. Yes, this could have all been done prior to the start of painting as per the rulespack but I've been lazy and distracted by Saga and Ronin. 

My first unit will be a core clanrats of 40 strong. 

Japanese rural building

I was researching the net for more samurai models to get when I stumbled upon this site.
http://boringmordheimforum.forumieren.com/t1828-my-alternative-japanese-mordheim
I never planned to make terrain/buildings for playing Ronin but the steps taken by Lilljonas to build his buildings seems doable enough so I gave it go. And here's my journey to making my first ever building for this hobby that I enjoy so much. Which really is a feat because all my friends know I'm just a lazy bestard when it comes to terrain.

Step 1. Keep it simple and follow the instructions. As much as possible I followed how Lilljonas did his building with some very minor tweaks in terms of materials and the roof. For the walls I used foam board glued to a placticard base. In hindsight I should've used a stronger material for the base as it warped when the glue dried up.
Step 2. Glue all wooden structures and such.

I used ice-cream stick and pre-cut balsa strips for the lower walls and windows. Then I completed the base by gluing rubble and sand.
Step 3. The roof.

This was made using some cardboard I had lying around. I didn't follow the cut straw style as I know this would be time consuming and opted for the old wash towel technique.

Not too bad if I do say so myself :)
Step 4. Painting and drybrushing and some weathering.

I used Army Painter Warpaints and Washes primarily for this project. Also their tuft.

It wasn't as hard as I thought it would be and I truly enjoyed making this house/building. More to come as I'm planning on making a full town to play Ronin :)

If you guys want to see some hardcore master terrain building skills check out monsier Scott's blog.
http://scottswargaming.blogspot.com/2013/09/victorian-terrace-completed.html
This Victorian Terrace building he built puts my rundown house to shame hahaha.

Cheers everyone. Thanks for reading.

Lord Kairugawa

This figure is from North Star Military Figures. It was a new release which was made together with Osprey's Ronin rulebook written by Craig Woodfield.
http://www.northstarfigures.com/list.php?man=152&page=1
http://www.ospreypublishing.com/store/Ronin-%E2%80%93-Skirmish-Wargames-in-the-Age-of-the-Samurai_9781780968469
I was extremely lucky to get myself the rulebook, the Bushi Buntai and Koryu Buntai set a while back. I'll write a review later when I've played a few games but today is just about painting one of the figures.

This one is from the Bushi Buntai set. Again, I'll write a proper review of the set because the presentation and figures are really really nice. 
http://www.northstarfigures.com/prod.php?prod=5452 

Some green stuff and grey resin casting and we have horns.

 I got the idea for the horns from a book I bought in Tokyo all the way back in 1996 when I was there for training.

And I really liked the red armour also from the book.

And to make sure I was able to get see all the details of the armour during painting I decided to basecoat grey followed by a thin wash of Dark Tone of the Army Painter wash.

And so Lord Kairugawa of the Tokugawa clan is ready for war.

I haven't painted the back banner yet because I'm still musing over how best to paint the Tokugawa clan crest.

If you guys have any suggestions or even know where I can get 28mm size Tokugawa transfers/decals I would be eternally thankful. 

Thanks for pooping by and appreciate any and all comments :)

Have a good week ahead.
 
 
 
 

Trying out Saga

Finally played Saga over the weekend with good friend Mark. Little did we know that after setting up the table that it was perfect for the 2nd scenario suggested in the rulebook 'Battle at the Ford'.
I played Vikings and Mark opted for the Welsh. Here's Mark learning his Welsh battle board planning bad things for my Vikings.

Yes, I was playing with unpainted models...shame on me. But the lure of trying out Saga was too great to resist and I'm really glad I did. It's been a while since I played any game and Saga was definitely the right choice.

I won the first game by rushing my Vikings forward and getting some good dice roll and being able to get some good activation to support my attack.

You can see Mark's warriors hiding in the bushes, as if it would help to delay their doom. In the end, I killed his warlord and most of his units. The game ended in around 1.5 hours and was really enjoyable.

So much so that we played a second game. We tried the 3rd scenario 'Sacred Ground' which was even nicer. Unfortunately, the Welsh were angered by their previous defeat and showed my Vikings how deadly their javelins were.

Although I got to the middle sacred ground first I wasn't able to defend it. I was also unable to take more pictures during the second game as my Vikings were hard pressed and it took all my effort and cunning to give my Vikings a last honorable stand on the hill. This time it my warlord was killed together with the majority of his forces. Only one unit of 4 heartguards survived to tell the tale. 

Two games that were thoroughly enjoyable. The rules were easy to learn and didn't take long to understand. The gem of the game though is the Battle Boards and Saga dice system. You will never have enough actions/activation's so careful planning is required each turn. I won't go too much into that but you can read a more detailed explanation here by Verythrax on his blog. 
http://canyoudigit.blog.com/2013/01/07/review-saga-dark-age-skirmishes/

A few things I will say though;
1. The rules are elegant in it's simplicity. You won't...actually you can't spend hours trying the devise the ultimate killer crush you enemy to death on the first turn list. All the units in every factions have the same attributes with some very very minor differences.
If you're one of those gamers who hate playing against the latest shiniest uber unit that cost two arms, a leg and one of your kidneys then Saga is the game for you. You will never have the feeling of being at a disadvantage at the start of the game. Never!
2. As I mentioned, the Battle Boards and Saga dice are the heart of the game. There are some funky abilities that you can do but none are over the top powerful. Deciding which to use with your ever limited resources is what makes Saga fun. When you finally land those killer abilities and are able to perform them as planned, it's just beautiful.
3. At the cost of reducing your unit's activation, Saga also has abilities that you can use during your opponent's turn to protect your troops by giving them better defenses or even thwarting your opponent's evil plans. It's worth to be careful and keep some dice on the Battle Boards but fortune always favor the brave. Though being smart is always better than dead haha.
4. Saga doesn't take too long to finish being a skirmish game and games will flow quicker once players learn their Battle Boards. Games should finish in the 1 to 1.5 hour mark. Which means more games can be played.

Saga is awesome! Give it a try. I guarantee you will be pleasantly surprised :) 

Viking Warlord and Hearthguards complete

Finally finished my Warlord and his trusty and brave Heartguards. The Saga rulebook does not mention base shape or size but the Gripping Beast box set does come supplied with square plastic bases. 

Unfortunately, there's not enough supplied to single base all the figures (44 in all) so I made my own out of MDF. I made them slightly larger that the plastic ones supplied so that I could put more tuft/grass on them. Thereby hopefully shifting the focus from my 'let's get it done quickly' paint job to the nice(in my opinion) bases hahahaha.

I took a page from Bo Penstoft's beautifully painted vikings army which was featured in Wargames Illustrated #286. I liked how he picked red and brown colors to give his army a coherent look and copied it shamelessly :)

The shield designs are decals from Little Big Men Studios. This is the first time I've used this type of decals and I like it very much. It's easy to use and there's very little chance of damaging the decal design during application. I'm sold on these decals and will be getting more in the future. Check them out here. I highly recommend them. http://www.littlebigmenstudios.com/catalog/  

The tufts are from Army Painter and are ridiculously easy to use. "Look closely at the beautiful flowers...the flowers are nice...." 

Onward to the next Hirdmen and Warriors units!!